DIYEFI.org Forum

LOTS of catching up to do before I start contributing, but I wanted to point out a thread or two I think will nicely compliment the discussion here: One all about inputs for cam/crank/etc angle sensors. This is the actual physical design of them, not the logic of how to run the motor. http://www.diy...

Two things come to mind here, if the mods think this is better split into two threads, use your god-powers and fix it. (I'm doing #2 first since it's not really a whole topic, may not require more discussion) 2) Minor, but for those not using a closed-loop idle control, but rather a %duty cycle on a...

One of the worst parts since my conversion to an aftermarket ECU is the fact I have to run the starter for 5-10 seconds to get the motor to start. It's not hard starting, in starts way better than the OEM unit ever did. But it sits and watches the engine going around and around for no reason, then e...

This is a subject near and dear to my heart since... I've spent months fighting it whereas everything else on my MS-II is a gimmie. I've heard a lot of people mention that the OEMs use "very advanced" inputs which can't be copied by the amature, however I don't believe they are spending $7...

Yeah, they are a nice piece of gear :-) The other thread has a comments thread of its own too you know :-) Are you kidding? A whole extra click? :-P The reason I've soldered ribbon straight to it is to keep those screw blocks free for potential future connection, and so I dont have to screw/unscrew...

Indeed. Although a few of the LED's are two-way (multicolor) for those with tri-state bits in their eyes. Why solder to the bottom of the JS when there are the wire blocks? No harm in it, but I'm curious. Really nice looking (noting the other, locked, thread as well). Anyway, to take a stab at my ow...

The ribbon cable on the back is connecting to what? That's your I/O, to something like a jimstim?