DIYEFI.org Forum

jbelanger wrote:You'd also need some sort of thermocouple amplifier such as the AD595 to have a 0-5V signal.

Jean

Actually I was hoping he could have a firmware version that takes a 0-5V input and show the EGT, as I have a PLX EGT box that outputs a 0-5V.

Fred wrote:You could definitely do JUST EGT with it with only a firmware swap though, right?

Fred.

Ah yes, that is a good idea. It would be an easy task to use a thermocouple instead of the output from a wideband controller. I will work on that soon.

REgards,

Alan To

I acknowledge this is a prehistoric post, but do you still have the diagram and list of components for this? I'm trying to do an ultra-cheap O2 controller to work with the MegaSquirt III.

SteyrTMP wrote:I'm trying to do an ultra-cheap O2 controller to work with the MegaSquirt III.

Seems fitting! :-) You realise that the above was just a display module for a 0-5V signal, though, right?

Urgh. I was plowing through a crapload of links, didn't notice the display. Crap. Trying to find something along the line of the NAW and JAW. No more 30 dollar kits out there, they all start at 65ish.

The thing is, the sensor costs 50usd minimum, so provided that you're around that point, you're looking good cost wise, IMO. Have you seen the SLC_OEM evaluation kit? One of the guys running FreeEMS is using one and has a datalog that looked pretty good! Otherwise there is this, though it's got issues, and I've not had a chance to tidy it up suitably for release to the public:

https://github.com/fredcooke/WaltechWBO2

Links to the author's site in the readme, just scroll down. He says it's about 20usd worth of parts, but I'm not sure it's worth it in its current form with the eval kit at 125usd+postage.

Fred.

I already have the sensor, a Bosch 17014, the OEM wideband sensor, for about 50-60 bucks, back when I had money. I took a layoff to become a full-time student (machinist) and it's not quite the same anymore.

I'll look at the link. My dad does advanced R&D for an automation company, so soldering and assembling is not an issue, just cost. Also, because I am using MegaSquirt III, which has the A/F gauge in TunerStudio, I don't need the extra cost for a display that most kits include, just the controller itself.

Sure, I've not used a gauge in the past, though a real time gauge is a good thing if you're running lots of boost, otherwise the engine will tell you things aren't OK.