DIYEFI.org Forum

As requested by Gearhead (and I agree) here is a thread for your Miata to MS project. If/when you license it appropriately we can move the thread to a different forum section. The other posts can stay where they are because it doesn't make sense to split them out (context for both threads would be lost). Go nuts here :-)

Fred.

Thanks - I agree. Insofar as my questions related directly to board layout, I thought it made sense to have it there - but it has devolved into megasquirt specific issues...

First off a friend wants to use it on his MS-I, so I'll have to look at how to get around that....

But basically, it's done, boards are in the mail (kinda excited!).... I wish I was better with "wings", or that I could make parts in solidworks or even sketchup, and import them - because wings is terrible. But I'd like to have more models....
-Abe.


As submitted, or very very close.






PS - heh, ok.. The purpose of the board is twofold, one, to adapt the OEM wiring harness' 64 pin connector to the MS DB-37, as this does:


Then to give me a nicely laid out, easy to debug, configurable set of inputs and outputs (more sensitivity/noise rejection on the inputs, better power driving on the outputs) to replace all this:

(Ok, admitedly, that was spread out to expose testing points, but it really is complicated in there, with limited proto-area, and building things like this inside:


Lastly it gets me out of having to choose between this:


and



etc etc. It's very similar to a "plug-and-play" some companies make only it's not $700. Also it integrates the control for the alternator, AC, etc...

Want to check how close the render is to the real deal?


Debagged



The circuit that started it all




Mostly populated


Fully populated



Top Down



Back side


It's still untested, but it feels good to see it all come together. Thanks Jean, Harv, and the rest of you for the pointers along the way.

Looks good Abe!! :-)

hope Im not hijacking here Abe (8inch)
but Im interested where you mentioned alternator control, is this the MZR (duratec) engine that is in the miata? and what exactly is the ECU controlling on
the alternator is it on/off or output voltage control via the field?

regards Paul

It's the field control, but, this is the older car, with the BP motor.

Nothing to do with Miata, but here's diagram how Dodge Neon alternator needs to be wired to use it without stock computer. Same applies to all Chryslers using PCM controlled alternator. VR-125 is old style voltage regulator used on nearly all Chrysler Corp. vehicles between 1970 and 1992. This is same setup that I'll use on my own project since mounting old style alternator to new style engine would be extra work with no benefits. Some companies try to sell you one wire alternator with built-in regulator for $599... All you really need to use stock Nippon Denso unit is voltage regulator (Standard Motor Products VR125) and required connector (Standard S573), total $37.07 + shipping from Rockauto. Alternator side 2 pin connector seems to be difficult to find but it should be same on all mid 90's and up Chryslers so I'll get one from junkyard.

Image is from neos.org forum.

Good idea:
http://abefm.smugmug.com/gallery/409354 ... 5867_8rQvb

I spent ~$27 on my set up, which is the same thing. You should be able to get it locally instead of from Rock.


I'm hoping the little circuit I'm using (which I'll share if it pans out) will do the same thing, only better. Plus, perhaps the FreeEMS could run it, things like "oh shit idle save"... It's only, um, 4 or 5 cm^2 of board space and $5 in parts.

8InchesFlacid wrote:I spent ~$27 on my set up, which is the same thing. You should be able to get it locally instead of from Rock.

VR price would have been 35 euros (48 USD) locally and VR connector was not available at all. Shipping can take easily week from local shop. I'm still waiting for one small box that was shipped seven days ago from 250 miles away. Package from Rockauto took only 38 hours from time I hit "order" button to arrive on my door. Not bad considering it travelled well over 5000 miles and also spent some of that time in local customs waiting for papers to be filled by Fedex.

I'll need to check what charging voltage I get with same setup using Mopar/ND alternator to find out if same problem you're experiencing is present.

I was totally willing to drop this, but, wow, those pictures are garbage. here:


Er, and



If this is all you got, you might as well make it look as good as you can. Anyway, it's fun to compare to the render to see how close I got.