As long as you're looking at the right schematics, that sounds like a reasonable move. Even more reasonable would simply be to install all labeled parts until there are none left, and when there are not none left, narrow down where they belong :-) Andy could fill you in on the specific question you have. Hopefully he spots this post. Maybe PM him a link to it as he's been pretty busy recently.
VolvoGuy's Jaguar 0.7 build Serial#21
Re: VolvoGuy's Jaguar 0.7 build Serial#21
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Re: VolvoGuy's Jaguar 0.7 build Serial#21
Sorry... I've been really busy with projects at work...
The 5th row of the BOM shows:
So the component bag you show above is the correct Digikey part number for C54.
When I had Digikey create the parts kits, they could only print a limited number of part locations on their auto-generated labels so the last couple of location IDs may not appear on the label.
I recommend that anyone building a DIY project should open up the schematic and the BOM to help with assembly. There are notes in the schematic as to what components you should use when there are multiple parts supplied for the same location. The BOM also is the definitive list of what Digikey part numbers correspond to the location IDs. Hundreds of hours have been spent by many people to ensure the accuracy of the documentation in my git repository.
The only inaccuracy with the BOM listed is for C7 (the 6.8nF value is correct, but the Digikey part number and description in the tagged BOM are incorrect), the correct Digikey part number is 445-8392-ND with a description of CERAMIC 6800PF 50V 5% RADIAL, 0.098” LS. I have corrected this in the dev branch as of git:c759edb6ce44447538c2b475f4c62a509926e599
Cheers,
See the BOM at: https://github.com/DeuceEFI/Jaguar/blob ... -alpha.odsvolvoguy wrote:I'm moving onto the AAP and MAP next, I noticed I can't find C54 printed on any of the component packages. Looking at the schematic it needs to be 0.1uF, can I use one of the ones from the packet of CAP CER 0.1UF 50V 10% RADIAL (P/N 399-4264-ND)?
The 5th row of the BOM shows:
Code: Select all
17 C6,14,15,16,17,22,26,28,29,32,33,34,35,39,41,49,54 0.1uF / 100nF CERAMIC 0.1UF 50V 10% RADIAL, 0.100” LS X7R 17 Kemet C320C104M1U5TA 399-4264-ND
When I had Digikey create the parts kits, they could only print a limited number of part locations on their auto-generated labels so the last couple of location IDs may not appear on the label.
I recommend that anyone building a DIY project should open up the schematic and the BOM to help with assembly. There are notes in the schematic as to what components you should use when there are multiple parts supplied for the same location. The BOM also is the definitive list of what Digikey part numbers correspond to the location IDs. Hundreds of hours have been spent by many people to ensure the accuracy of the documentation in my git repository.
The only inaccuracy with the BOM listed is for C7 (the 6.8nF value is correct, but the Digikey part number and description in the tagged BOM are incorrect), the correct Digikey part number is 445-8392-ND with a description of CERAMIC 6800PF 50V 5% RADIAL, 0.098” LS. I have corrected this in the dev branch as of git:c759edb6ce44447538c2b475f4c62a509926e599
Cheers,
Andy.
FreeEMS vehicle #11, 1932 Ford 5 Window Coupe with a 1996 GM 3.1L SFI V6 with DIS ignition
FreeEMS vehicle #16, 1996 Chevrolet S10 2.2L SFI I4 with DIS ignition
Owner of http://www.coolefi.com
FreeEMS vehicle #11, 1932 Ford 5 Window Coupe with a 1996 GM 3.1L SFI V6 with DIS ignition
FreeEMS vehicle #16, 1996 Chevrolet S10 2.2L SFI I4 with DIS ignition
Owner of http://www.coolefi.com
Re: VolvoGuy's Jaguar 0.7 build Serial#21
I've got EMStudio recording logs that OpenLogViewer can read, I got a chunky resolution readout of me messing around with the TPS. I remember Fred writing that the sampling frequency was low when something-something so I'm not worried about that yet.
I populated the timing area of the board for optical/Hall according to the schematic, attached the CAS, and the blinkenlights D4 and D5 on the board seem to confirm it's working. I was trying to think of a way to flip the asymmetrical timing rotor in the CAS so I could use the standard decoder firmware but short of getting one laser cut I don't think I could do it accurately enough.
Next up: buying injectors, fuel pump, sorting the timing decoder, loom connectors, weld a floor back into the car etc.
I populated the timing area of the board for optical/Hall according to the schematic, attached the CAS, and the blinkenlights D4 and D5 on the board seem to confirm it's working. I was trying to think of a way to flip the asymmetrical timing rotor in the CAS so I could use the standard decoder firmware but short of getting one laser cut I don't think I could do it accurately enough.
Next up: buying injectors, fuel pump, sorting the timing decoder, loom connectors, weld a floor back into the car etc.
Re: VolvoGuy's Jaguar 0.7 build Serial#21
Good progress! :-)
PS, I now have a Volvo, too.
Remind me what the issue is, once again, please?volvoguy wrote:I was trying to think of a way to flip the asymmetrical timing rotor in the CAS so I could use the standard decoder firmware but short of getting one laser cut I don't think I could do it accurately enough.
PS, I now have a Volvo, too.
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Re: VolvoGuy's Jaguar 0.7 build Serial#21
Good looking wagon! Seems to be a good turbo choice too from what I've read. I'd like to get a box of mild steel bends and mig up a cheap manifold for one on the Amazon. I've convinced my dad that twin scroll is the way to go with his +T 245 as well, he might go for the J-pipe seeing as the N/A manifold's already on there.
The timing problem is that the redblock rotates the CAS backwards. One rotor has rotational symmetry but the other doesn't and its edges wil be in the wrong place.
The timing problem is that the redblock rotates the CAS backwards. One rotor has rotational symmetry but the other doesn't and its edges wil be in the wrong place.
From here.Fred wrote:[...] an "invert decoder" patch is a very easy patch to maintain and rebase going forward, however you'll NEVER be able to grab the binary from the server and just use it, which sucks for various reasons and will always suck a bit.
Re: VolvoGuy's Jaguar 0.7 build Serial#21
Patch the firmware to suit, build your own copy, and when you get sync, tweak angles until timeTolerance is a flat line in logs. Or go for optical + custom disk? I can take back what I said earlier about integrating this patch. Maybe it'd be OK to do so, then redblock owners could use magnetic and not just optical.
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Re: VolvoGuy's Jaguar 0.7 build Serial#21
some of the CAS's of that type can dismantled and the disc can be flipped.
which would solve the problem.
I did it on a 4G63 once. for reasons I wont admit to.
which would solve the problem.
I did it on a 4G63 once. for reasons I wont admit to.
Re: VolvoGuy's Jaguar 0.7 build Serial#21
Fred wrote:As long as you're looking at the right schematics, that sounds like a reasonable move. Even more reasonable would simply be to install all labeled parts until there are none left, and when there are not none left, narrow down where they belong Andy could fill you in on the specific question you have. Hopefully he spots this post. Maybe PM him a link to it as he's been pretty busy recently.
now what have a told you about putting pictures of your cock on the interned Fred...
you need an object for size reference. like a lighter or a box of matches.
Re: VolvoGuy's Jaguar 0.7 build Serial#21
You can't flip the hall effect type as they're 3d. That's the issue. On the optical ones there is an additional issue, the sensors for outer and inner are offset.em_knaps wrote:some of the CAS's of that type can dismantled and the disc can be flipped.
which would solve the problem.
I did it on a 4G63 once. for reasons I wont admit to. :-P
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
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Back to work
I'm able to put some time into this again, I have the car within a couple of miles of where I live. I've moved house four times since I started building this Jaguar, loads of little things have gone missing during the moves and I've forgotten a tonne.
After I remembered that the USB cable didn't power the board (that took >6hrs of faffing through hard drives looking for the partition with "the working software") I bought a power supply and confirmed that the board will still communicate with EMStudio.
Questions:
After I remembered that the USB cable didn't power the board (that took >6hrs of faffing through hard drives looking for the partition with "the working software") I bought a power supply and confirmed that the board will still communicate with EMStudio.
Questions:
- Is it still best to add a relay that hooks BRV to the battery when the key is turned?
- On the bench is it safe (or even necessary) to hook BRV up to a little 12v 30w adapter? ebay example
- Should I finalise engine peripherals like IAC before I start jumpering ports together?